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Opener Installation and Setup

Installing an opener is mostly the setup, not the mounting. A unit that is fitted correctly and configured badly behaves exactly like a faulty one.
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Drive type is the first choice. Chain drives are the cheapest and by far the loudest. Belt drives cost more and run quietly, which matters when there is a room above the garage. Direct drive units have the fewest moving parts and the highest price.
Horsepower is usually oversold. The opener does not lift the door, the springs do. A correctly balanced door does not need a large motor, and buying one to overcome a balance problem hides the fault rather than fixing it.
The installation itself has to start with a balanced door. Fitting an opener to an unbalanced door guarantees the force settings will be wrong, because they are calibrated against whatever resistance exists on the day.
Then come the travel limits, which tell the unit where the floor and the fully open position are, and the force settings, which decide how much resistance counts as an obstruction. Both need setting deliberately rather than left at the factory default.
Finally the safety systems: the photo eyes aligned and tested, and the mechanical reverse checked against an obstruction on the floor. An installation that has not been safety tested is not finished.